Summary

Chapter 18

At about the same time Hansen arrives at the summit, three climbers from India radio that they too have reached the summit, having climbed up the Tibetan side. Because of the wind and snow they do not realize that that have not actually reached the summit. Their distance from the summit explains why they never encountered Hall or Hansen. When Boukreev begins to search for the abandoned clients, two Japanese climbers and three Sherpas find one of the Indian climbers in the snow, frostbitten but alive. The Japanese team continues climbing, not wanting to risk their summit attempt.

Soon, the Japanese climbers find the other two Indian climbers and again refuse to help in any way. Despite the winds and adverse conditions, the Japanese make it to the summit. It is unlikely that they encountered Hall, struggling to stay alive on the South Summit.

Chapter 19

This chapter focuses on Krakauer, resuming on May 11 when he realizes that many of his teammates and guides are dead. After having spent the night at 26,000 without gas, everyone at Camp Four struggling. Krakauer's teammate, Lou Kasischke is snow blind and incoherent, and other teammates appear to be in a deep sleep or unconscious. Krakauer looks for a full oxygen canister but cannot find one. In the absence of their guides, Stuart Hutchinson, the client in the best physical and mental condition, steps into the role.

Hutchinson rounds up four Sherpas to retrieve Weathers and Namba's bodies. They find the bodies, and unbelievably, Namba is still breathing. Her limbs are frozen, her skin is white and she is close to death. Beck is also still breathing. The Sherpas ask Hutchinson what to do, and after considering their options they decide that it is best to leave Namba and Weathers where they are. The remaining climbers at Camp Four try to decide what to do, but most of the climbers are in no condition to descend.

Beidleman, looking after Sandy Pittman and the other rescued climbers, descend to Camp Three. During the climb down, one of their Sherpas is struck in the head by a rock.

The IMAX team joins in the rescue attempt, offering batteries and oxygen and trying to climb up from Camp Two to join the abandoned teams. That day, at 4:35 pm in the afternoon, Beck Weathers arrives at camp, "somehow arisen from the dead." Weathers tells them that he remembers freezing and drifting into unconsciousness, but then he came to and summoned the will not only to move, but to actually make it back to camp. They give Weathers oxygen, bundle him up in sleeping bags and with hot water bottles, but are pessimistic about his prognosis.

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